latest news
in this page I will update you with my trips and whereabouts whenever I am doing something fun. I will try to add map markers as well, so you will be able to literally follow me...
Copenhagen - Oslo
Finally I finished the gallery from the trip Copenhagen to Oslo.
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distance: 17 nautical miles (31.5km)
I'm in Oslo. Always when I finish an enjoyable trip I wish it would last a bit longer, but not today. I miss my son too much.
The trip was great. Meeting good people in the way, exploring the Swedish coastline, and enjoying the open air and the physical activity.
Today was perfect. The weather was nice and the sea was calm, I paddled to Nord Kano- og Kajakk-Klubb in Oslo where I planned to wash my gear and get organize. Geoffrey, from the local club, met me there. Gave me a key and even a bus ticket! To be used in the Oslo system. Thank you Geoffrey.
Yossi, from Israel, arrived a bit later, I gave him my kayak, which he suppose to paddle back to Copenhagen. Good luck.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 12 knots
Today was a good day for paddling, it was cloudy with a southerly not cool wind. Norway is beautiful, I am in the Oslo fjord about 30 km from the end, and I camped today at the edge of a small town. Tomorrow might be a day off, I should have plenty of time to make it to Oslo before the 1st of July.
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Yesterday and today I stayed in the sailing club that hosted me so nicely. I need to be in Oslo only on the 29th while I have only two paddling days left. So why not stay in this beautiful spot?
Today was the start of a local yacht race, and I wanted to watch it so it was another reason to stay.
Not only I watched, thanks to Olav from the sailing club, I got a front sit position. He took me on a speed boat to the start point.
At 13:00 the boats started to gather and the start was at 14:00. What a sight :)
Tomorrow I'm back to paddling. Getting up at 6am, 7:30 in the water. I only hope the weather will be as perfect as today.
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distance: 27 nautical miles (50.0km)
wind: 12 knots
today started with a strong pain in my right shoulder. The pain lasted for 2 hours. I had thoughts to stop and rest it, but after paddling enough the pain just left and i could relaxed and enjoy the ride :)
I crossed the Norwegian border at 10am and although still being in the same geographical area there was a different feeling. Maybe it is a different housing style, or maybe it is just me...
My day ended in Frederikstad sailing club. Thomas and Hans welcomed me.I was allowed to put up my tent and also got to shower. Thank you!
In the evening other club members invited me to watch the match between Japan and Demark. My new home team lost and are out of the world cup.
Tomorrow is a day off. I have 5 days to get to Oslo and I need only 2 paddling days.
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It was a rare day of excellent weather with no paddle and no injuries :)
I'm schedule to get to Oslo on the 29th so i'm really not in a hurry.
I spent the day in Strömstad and was surprise to discover a really nice coastal town. So i just strolled around and ate. Doing everything and nothing.
Tomorrow i'll go back on paddling. I get to miss it even if is for one day.
Soon i will cross the Norwegian border so i supplied my boat with all the goodies i could before everything turn very expensive. Sorry Norway for not helping with your economy, but I just cannot afford it :)
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distance: 31 nautical miles (57.4km)
wind: 15 knots
What a long day. I wanted to camp near a town in order to get internet and skype. But the luck was not with me and after stopping a few places I ended up at this caravan site. Not the worst place to be, and might take tomorrow as a day off to rest my back, who is complaining a bit..
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distance: 28 nautical miles (51.9km)
Today was the perfect day, the sun was shining and the wind made sure it did not get too warm. I set camp on an island with no people. What an amazing place!
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distance: 16 nautical miles (29.6km)
wind: 15 knots
Yet another beautiful day! And the people I meet on the way are so nice :)
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more points for Copenhagen - Oslo...
distance: 24 nautical miles (44.4km)
wind: 15 knots
Had an amazing day, lots of tiny islands all over!
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Went to Göteborg today. Not my best of days, messed up with the busses, ended up on the wrong island and later birds ate my bread for tomorrows breakfast!! The forecast for tomorrow looks promising so its going to be good to move on.
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distance: 24 nautical miles (44.4km)
Today I paddled by beautiful little islands, rocks and adorable tiny towns. After the paddle it was time for doing some laundry. It seems like its gonna be windy the next two days, hope it will still be possible to get on the water.
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
After setting camp I got company, about 20 cows came to greet me. What more to ask for after a beautiful day in the kayak :)
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distance: 15 nautical miles (27.8km)
wind: 20 knots
My mat is leaking air! I woke up three times last night just to refill it with air. After the paddle I tried desperately to find the leak but with no luck, sleepless nights ahead ?!!
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distance: 23 nautical miles (42.6km)
wind: 15 knots
A windy day on the water. I hoped to paddle more than what I did but the wind picked up so I decided to set camp. Luck stroke me, I found a beautiful spot by the water and the house nearby gave me a shower! Its just amazing to meet helpful people. Dinner is ready and the wind dropped, could not be much better..
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Yesterday was very windy. Constant force 7 with lots of force 8 gusts. Today was better, f 6 till 13, going down to 5 later on. I decided not to paddle since i have many extra days, and it will be annoying to paddle in these conditions.
My boat is leaking a bit so I tried to fix it. I'll know if i was successful tomorrow.
The outlook for tomorrow is great, no wind, partly sunny, just the way i like it :)
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distance: 27 nautical miles (50.0km)
wind: 10 knots
Had a good paddle today and ended up with a nice camp. Today I saw a lot of seal with white dots, don't know their name, and a dolphin too! The rain didn't seem to take too many breaks, so its nice with a hot cup of tea :)
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distance: 25 nautical miles (46.3km)
Aching, I can feel all my muscles! But it feels good. I hoped to take a shorter paddle tomorrow but it seems like I'll have to make it longer, cause there is a storm coming so I would like to have made some progress before that.
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more points for Copenhagen - Oslo...
distance: 17 nautical miles (31.5km)
wind: 15 knots
First day. Feels great to be on the water, but can tell that I did'nt paddle too much before the trip this time...
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Everything is almost ready for the trip. Two weeks ago I fixed the keel strip in my kayak. The kayak now is water tight. I got my gear in one piece and I am left with laminating the maps and buying food only.
The Norwegian meteorologic institution keep updating their website. They have new features that makes it easy and accessible to get the marine forecast. So you can check out their site.
Another site I am using is the Danish one which is great too.
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In the beginning of June I plan to start my next sea kayak trip. This time i will just throw my kayak into the water next to my Copenhagen based club and start paddle north to finish a few weeks and about 600km later in Oslo.
Most of the way will be actually in Sweden, trough the amazing area of small islands, rocks and beautiful landscape.
Follow me by checking out this page.
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Faroe Islands
Misha stayed on Nólsoy for today. Tomorrow he is supposed to 'park' his kayak at Torshavn, 3 miles away from where he is now.
It was a rainy day and Misha spent most of it in his tent, reading, cooking, having his meals and ... reading again.
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wind: 10 knots
Misha came back to those camomile flowers of Nólsoy that he missed so much. Most of them already faded but he still has a 'camomile view' from his tent.
Today he paddled 16 miles. The current flooded east. And although Misha paddled NE, his speed was 7kn per hour, so that he almost 'missed' the island of Nólsoy.
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wind: 10 knots
Tosay was a short paddling day. Misha arrived to Skopun, the most Northern village of the Sandoy island. It took him 2.5 hours to cover 13 miles distance. The current was with him
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distance: 11 nautical miles (20.4km)
wind: 10 knots
Misha paddled to the West of Sandoy. He passed the tidal race between Sandoy and Skuvoy at the slack time, and still the tide's speed was 4kn. Locals say it comes to 8 kn when flooding.
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distance: 15 nautical miles (27.8km)
wind: 15 knots
Misha paddled to a beautiful island of Sandoy. He did the crossing between Hestur and Sandoy at the slack time, following the locals' advice, and afterwords had to paddle against the current. That wasn't too bad :)
He stopped at the Husavik village, at the East coast.
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wind: 20 knots
What a day!
Misha decided not to paddle to Mykines due to strong winds that could affect tidal races on his way and relatively long distance to cover.
He started paddling after 1 pm waiting for the slack to come, hoping to head for Hestur with the current.
The side wind within the passage picked up and raised to 20-30kn with the gusts of 35kn. The current that was supposed to switch was still running in the same direction, and Misha paddled with the speed of 1-2 kn. After he finally paddled out of the Vestmannasund passage, the current changed.
Further on Misha had to paddle through a tidal race with pretty choppy seas. In addition to all this, a heavy fog covered everything and Misha could hardly see anything for more than a few hundred meters. At this stage he already passed the Koltur island and was heading to Hestur.
Misha hardly new where he was going - apparently his GPS was on low battery. After some time, when he managed to switch the GPS on, he realized that he was paddling with 5 kn speed, in spite of the strong side wind. The current was with him! And eventually he saw Hestur!
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distance: 17 nautical miles (31.5km)
wind: 20 knots
Today was one of those hard paddling days. Pretty windy, and at the end of the day Misha paddled through the Vestmannasund passage against the current. Luckily, there was a village in a protected bay not far from the passage entry.
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distance: 22 nautical miles (40.7km)
wind: 10 knots
Today Misha made his way to Streymoy, the biggest of the Faroe islands. He stopped at the northernmost village of the island Tjørnuvík.
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distance: 21 nautical miles (38.9km)
wind: 10 knots
Misha arrived to Vidoy island today. Vidoy is the northernmost of the Faroe Islands with the highest cliff in Europe, Enniberg. The view of the cliff from the water was most fascinating!
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more points for Faroe Islands...
distance: 24 nautical miles (44.4km)
wind: 15 knots
Misha arrived to Svinoy. He paddled by the cliffs, explored the surroundings. Beautiful Svinoy and its villagers welcomed Misha with their hospitality.
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distance: 17 nautical miles (31.5km)
wind: 20 knots
Misha Hoichman
Misha started paddling North planning to reach Mykines during the next days. However, paddling against the current was pretty exhosting and he finally decided to switch the direction and to paddle south.
He arrived to Nólsoy after several hours of paddling.
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Misha arrived to Hestur by ferry after meeting Alon at Torshavn.
Windy, cold and rain.
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Today I took the ferry across and then the bus to Tórshavn. It is a bit sad to end a trip, but even today I met some more nice local people. I was the only passenger in the bus and the bus driver offered me a ride to my destination, diverting his normal route.
Tomorrow I will meet Misha here in Tórshavn and try to give him some tips about the Faroes. In a way , I envy him for starting such a fantastic trip, but on the other hand, I want to go back home away from the bad weather :)
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Today I climbed the hills of the island, I made it to a big grassy area with lakes, sheep and lots of bird life. After all the walking I bought access (25 dkk) to the public swimming pool. Since I was the only one I just got the key and was free to go for a swim and enjoy a nice hot shower. It has been a perfect day, sunny but with cool air. Tomorrow I am gonna take the ferry back to Tórshavn but leaving the kayak behind for Misha to take over. I think I already told most of the 15 people who lives here that he will be coming so they will be waiting for him.
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distance: 10 nautical miles (18.5km)
This is so far the nicest place I have been here. Not many people live here all year but there are a lot of summer houses. Its so beautiful and clean. Tomorrow will be a day on land, there is a hill I will try and climb where there should be a lot of paths so I will go and explore a bit.
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distance: 24 nautical miles (44.4km)
No leaks on the kayak, excellent fix! Today I went through 3 tidal races, 2 with fast currents and the other with big waves, none of them too dramatic though. The paddle was only 5 hours, I got good help from a strong current, landed at 1500, had soup and organized all my stuff. From the opening of my tent I can see Torshavn, which in the beginning looked to me as a small town, but now after having seen what small towns are here, looks like a big city.
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Erik fixed the kayak! He is only 23 years old but extremely talented. He managed to restore the rim as if it is new. He also fixed all the other gelcoat damages. Thank you erik.
Weather doesnt look too good for today and tomorrow, it is a bit windy, but i hope to paddle tomorrow regardless. That is why i am moving down the fjord to a more protected areas...
Atli drove me with the kayak to Norðdepli, a little town not too far from Viðareiði, but with much better protected harbour and access to the south side. When we got there, Atli called his freind, jóhannes, and I got permission to stay in his boat house for the night. An hour later jóhannes invited me to stay at his home. I was lucky not only to get a nice shower, but also a great home meal made by jóhannes wife, jórun. I tried skerpikjøt, cold dried lamb meat - not cooked!!! I must say that the taste was a little bit strong for me, although it is good when eaten in small portions.
It was a bit windy today and tomorrow doesnt look much better, but I hope make some progress regardless.
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Today is a fixing day. I am not sure I will be able to restore the cockpit rim, but I am sure that duck tape will be enough for the gelcoat damages. I put some epoxy glue to attach the 4 pieces of the broken rim. I hope it will be strong enough for the actual fix. I plan to coat the inside rim with some thick layer of epoxy, using the rim broken parts only as a bonding material. The first part is done lets see how my plan will work...
twist in the plot:
I was talking to someone here about my kayak. 5 minutes later, he arrange someone to fix it. So now I am sitting here in the hotel loby while someone else is proffecinaly working on my kayak. should be done be the evening. And the kayak will be ready by tomorrow after a good long dry.
fingers crossed for a good fixing.
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more points for Faroe Islands...
distance: 20 nautical miles (37.0km)
wind: 15 knots
Today started well. the wind did not affected my paddle too much and I had a good progress in the first few hours. When I approached the north part of Kunoy the reflections of the waves became stronger and stronger. I had to hug the cliffs due to the currents and it was hard and frustrating paddling. Things got even harder once I paddled arround the cliffs of Vidoy. Thick fog covered me and the reflections were enormuse. It was only about 2 meter swell, but the current made it much worse. Visibility was between 50 to 100 meters and I didnt want to paddle to my initial destination - Svinoy. I started to develop some light simptoms of sea sickness and all I could think about was solid ground.
But the worst was still to come: The Viðareiði bay turned to be a very hard landing spot. the jetty was stip and the waves created alivations of over 3 meters there with under 10 seconds frequency. It meant swiming, attaching a rope to the boat and try to climb on the jetty. If I wont be fast enough, I might find myself in the middle of the sea, where there are strong currents and out of my boat. I had to think of another alternative.
There was a small, stip, rocky beach there. the waves were breaking on this beach, but It might work. due to the breaks, I wont end up in the middle of the sea.
I counted the waves to find out when is best to jump off my kayak. So far I was checking and prepering for about 20 minutes... the time has come. I released my paddle from the its roap, jumped off my boat and throw away the paddle as far up the land as I could. I held the kayak and started to pull it up the stip rocks. I managed to drag it a few meters when a big wave broak and throw the kayaks on the rocks and then tried to pull it down to the sea. The kayaks cockpit filled with water and was impossible to pull up. more waves came and by the time I managed to empty it from water and put it safly away from the waves, the paddle was taken by the sea. I saw it floating for a little while, but by the time I was done with the boat, it was completely gone! I wouldnt jump to get it even if it was still visible...
I went back to the kayak only to discover that the front hatch rim broke and that the gelcoat was broken in a 3 places as well.
After scuring all my gear I took a quick shower with the habour hose and put on dry cloths.
When I went up towards the village I met Atli Hansen and his wife Lis. They gave me permission to tent in their garden. Atli came with some hot drink. I was very happy to end up where I did :)
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Today the weather was terrible, windy and lots and los of rain. I took the bus from Klaksvik to Viðareiði and spent a few hours there.
Today went easy with no big dramas.
In the afternoon I had a nice hot shower thanks to the rowing club.
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distance: 7 nautical miles (13.0km)
Today I paddled to Klaksvik, it was a bit hard to find landing where I could also put up my tent. In the end I found a tiny grassy area right next to a rowing club where they where friendly enough to offer me a hot shower! I got washed and so did my gear. Great! I took a walk in town and tomorrow Im thinking about taking a bus to explore a bit more of the island, since it doesnt look like the weather will allow me to be on the water.
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distance: 21 nautical miles (38.9km)
By myself. Weird that Oded is now gone and I have to get use to being by myself. Today was a good paddle now the tent is up and Im gonna go to the petrol station in order to buy a coke and get some more space to look at my maps and plan what I will do in the following days.
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distance: 11 nautical miles (20.4km)
Today was the last day for Oded, it was great spending time with him as he is a great guy. We took a short day in order to make sure the he had a way of transporting himself back to Torshavn where he will send his kayak back home to Israel. Thanks for now!
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distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
After the big corner we got hit by a wind stronger than 15 knots, quite a big tidal race and a swell at about 1,5 meters. A bit intimidating I must admit. Further north it opened up and the wind went down dramatically, but then the fog started to play with us. Now in the evening its a mixture of sun and clouds. We are staying a bit away from Saksun since we dont wanna get caught ind the tide tomorrow, and just came back from a walk to town to collect water. The scenery here is absolutely stunning!
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The weather werent with us today either, so after we talked to a few of the locals we decided to take the ferry to relocate. Everyone here are so nice, the didnt even charge us for taking the kayaks on the ferry! As for now the forecast for tomorrow looks promising, so we are of to bed hoping for the weather to be with us again.
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The morning was nice and sunny, we went for a climb and then the wind started to come in in the afternoon joined by rain and in the evening it started to storm. So no paddling today.
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distance: 22 nautical miles (40.7km)
We had a difficult morning with choppy sea which eased up a bit later on. Around lunch we stopped at Tintholmur a beautiful small island, went for a walk, took some pictures and waited for the tide to change. At the crossing to Mykines the race was hard and flowing fast, we saw whales! Stunning! The harbor here at Mykines is tiny and very steep, so we had quite a climb.
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more points for Faroe Islands...
distance: 20 nautical miles (37.0km)
wind: 10 knots
A very good first day on the water, just getting used to the new environment, the currents werent as strong as expected, we went through three small races but mainly we just had choppy water. Today we arrived at the village Sandavagur where they are having a festival in the following days and it looks like they are gonna have a big party tonight. I think we will skip and go early to bed instead, need to be ready for another day tomorrow, does take a few days to get back into the rhythm.
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Ok, so we arrived in Tórshavn this afternoon. we got our gear together, hoping to get on the water and paddle for couple of hours.
Oded is using a folded kayak which took him 4 hours to assemble and considering the tide direction we decided to start tomorrow morning instead of heaving a night paddle.
The forecast looks good so we should enjoy our first paddle day... another thing we decided to go south first :)
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In the first day of the trip Oded and I will put our boats in the water and just start paddle towards the north part.
We don't plan to circumnavigate it, just paddle some of the coastline there.
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Svalbard
Zealand - Denmark
distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
wind: 20 knots
I completed the trip today. The forecast was for 10 - 16 knots, but in reality it was more. So paddling today was hell. I hopped to finish by 13:00 or so, but instead I struggled for hours only to finish at 16:35!!!
Zealand is a nice little island, but the north east is way too built and less fun to paddle. My favorite areas are the west coast, where there are isolated areas with empty beaches and great nature.
If you plan a trip in Denmark I suggest using the local weather forecast on: DMI
generally, the forecast is accurate.
Great to back home :)
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distance: 25 nautical miles (46.3km)
wind: 12 knots
Early start (6:55 on the water), a quick paddle and good conditions put me in Nivå early in the afternoon. Good food, hot shower in the Nivå Yacht Club were a perfect ending to good paddle day.
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Due to the wind again, I didnt paddle today. Instead I took the bus to Gilleleje (nearest big town) to wash my kayak gear, cause I must admit that it was a bit smelly. In the afternoon I again had the benefit of paddling around the island I live on, my good friend Paul and his daughter Emilie came for a visit.
Looking forward to get back into the kayak again tomorrow.
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distance: 33 nautical miles (61.1km)
wind: 10 knots
After paddling good 60 km I found a landing spot on what looked to be a private beach. Luckily enough the people who owned the place came by a bit later and allowed me to stay the night, but did not seem to pleased about having me camping. I therefore decided to move my camp, I took a walk along beach and found a great spot a bit further up. Now its packing the kayak and then to drag it for about 500 meter only to put it all back up. Better doing it today where there is no wind than tomorrow where its suppose to be quite windy, not sure I will be making any progress due to the wind tomorrow. Lets see..
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distance: 25 nautical miles (46.3km)
I had been wondering if there were dolphins in Denmark and today I got the answer. On my first crossing I saw two and later another one! Amazing creatures.
After putting up camp I met a fisherman and asked him where I could refill my water bottles. He was kind enough to show me the way and to end with he gave me the only fish he had caught all day, with the excuse of already having caught a lot. What a kind guy. Now Im off to town to take a look around.....
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It is good having a day off. the past two days I paddled 126km and I am tired... The Northern wind is too strong to go for 24km of crossing, followed by a 16km crossing. Tomorrow looks like the wind will die though.
Anna came to visit me in Kalundborg, the nearest big town, such a treat to paddle around home.
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
wind: 10 knots
Yet another good day of progress. Tomorrow I have decided to take a days rest due to northern winds which makes the next two crossing crazy and will therefore wait a day since the forecast looks a lot more optimistic for Thursday.
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distance: 38 nautical miles (70.4km)
The perfect day of paddling. I started early to get some progress, since the weather forecast was optimistic for me today. And it sure was. I had the most beautiful day with sun and no wind, which allowed me to make some proper progress today.
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distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
wind: 13 knots
The morning started out tough, I had a head wind at about 20 knots, but after rounding the SE corner my luck seemed to turn around. First of all I now had the wind in my back and I also met two other paddlers, Bo and Åse.
They were such nice people and even offered me to stay the night in their kayakclub, after they had made me coffee and showed me the shower facilities!! My lucky day.
In the late afternoon I even had time for some sightseeing around Vordingborg, before going to sleep indoors.
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more points for Zealand - Denmark...
distance: 18 nautical miles (33.3km)
wind: 20 knots
The day started out as being warm and calm, it looked like a nice day of paddling. Later on the wind picked up a lot and I had to take a break to put on proper clothes and to see if it would calm down a bit again. Since the wind didnt feel like resting I decided to call it a day and put up the tent. Tomorrow looks more friendly wind-wise.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 15 knots
First day of paddling in a strong wind to begin with, but it decreased during the day. I had a long crossing and was planning to rest after, but ran in to an area of cliffs and had to go a bit further before landing was possible. The day and paddle was not as hard as expected but I surely feel that I got out of shape after quite some time in the cold danish winter. Good to get going again!
(also managed to break one of my tent poles today...)
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I wanted to start my trip today, but the wind is too strong (force 5) which is not a nice way to start. Tomorrow the wind is suppose to drop. I will paddle south (clockwise) due to the current on the west coast of Zealand which flows from south to north most of the time. a bit odd but I guess it is due to the funny topography.
So I lost one more day and since I have to finish by 30th of April, it leaves me with very little margin for delays due to bad weather or injury.
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I plan to circumnavigate my home island starting on 16 April 2009.
This trip is aimed for getting a better knowledge about the nice paddling areas I might have around me and also to get in shape after a long and cold danish winter.
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Svalbard
distance: 29 nautical miles (53.7km)
the information we had before the paddle:
Forecast: southerly wind force 2.
Ice: close drift ice next to the tip (yesterday map), but "lots of open water, no problem to land on the other side" according to one of the ships we talked to by VHF.
With this info at hand we decided not to wait, but to go for the crossing. We quickly folded the tent and the rest of our gear and started to paddle. The conditions seemed perfect.
We paddled for a few hours, easily going around blocks of ice paddling towards N 80°00.000' E 16°00.000'. 25km went by and then the air started to move, I looked at the barometer, a drop of 7 millibar within the last two hours, in the next two hors the drop should complete a total of nine millibar.
I started to worry. The wind picked up and it was force 4 after a short while. the sea, how ironically, was in its most open status since we started to paddle. We pushed hard against the side wind. The force 4 became force 5 with gusts of force 6-7. It was much colder as well. We wrapped ourselves with poggies and hats and continue. We started to see more and more ice. We looked for the big "lakes" in between the ice sheets, and we tried hard to move on, closer to shore closer to the warm tent. the ice kept closing leaving less and less free water to paddle in. We started to climb the ice in order to jump from one "lake" to another. We tried going from the left, then from the right strait into a dead end. We tried to turn but we couldn't, not enough room for the kayak, we reversed, just to bump into the ice and then we had only ice surrounding our kayaks. no water. We had to jump out of the kayak on to the ice. Looking around us we could only see Ice and more ice. There were hardly any blue patches in this ocean of white.We looked at the GPS, about 7km to shore. We started to walk. The boats are heavy (about 80kg), the terrain is very rough and the way is long. We were pushing the boats, then we connected a rope and pulled them. It was hard! There was not much time, the ice was constantly moving north while we were walking east toward the shore.
My old back injury came alive and the pain grow stronger by the minute. after another hour with growing pain I asked Tim to wait. We had to make a decision whether should we call it off. for Tim it was way to soon. He could move on, slowly, but progress to shore. I couldn't. I wasn't sure I was able to actually walk that distance with no heavy boat I need to drag. After about 30 minutes of sitting still and trying to decide the right thing I decided to call for help. Tim, although frustrated, supported me on this call. We started as a team and finished as one. Thanks Tim.
Two hours later rescue came, and took us to safety in Longyearbyen.Both Tim and I will add our summary of the trip in a few days, just check the summary tab on the website.
Thank you all for the comments and support.
Alon
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Still at the same spot. The weather and the ice wont allow the guys to continue. Tim already read his book twice, so I guess he will have to get going on the third time soon. I don't have updates on the ice during the weekend but really hope to see more clearance on Monday!
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Today most of the time was spent in the sleeping bags. Its cold, the fog is makes the visibility poor and the ice are making it difficult to do the big crossing, so for tonight they will once again stay put and hope for a better forecast tomorrow. The thing is that the ice changes a lot, and for a big crossing like the one they are about to do, they surely want to know that they are not putting themselves at risk.
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distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
wind: 5 knots
There was hardly no wind on this paddle but on the other hand lots of ice, so they had some difficulty finding their way. Now tonight the wind picked up a little bit and there is no visibility! So looks like they are gonna spend the night at Velkomstpynten (Welcome bay).
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This evening the guys met with expedition leader Woody from Quark expeditions and recieved their first food drop. So now its time for a good meal, a little bit of rest and then to continue the paddle. Woody wrote me that they both looked well and in good spirits, always good to hear. It looks like the ice is melting, but its still a bit tricky as it opens and closes pretty quickly in some areas. But for now they will just continue as far as possible, good spirits :)
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distance: 9 nautical miles (16.7km)
They guys got as far as crossing Raudfjorden, its wasn't an easy paddle but they did it. Now that they are facing even colder conditions with lots of ice and snow, they have decided to stay put here and wait for the boat that are arranging the food drops, hoping that it will be able to get this far east and deliver depot#1.
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distance: 15 nautical miles (27.8km)
wind: 5 knots
During the night Tim and Alon made it to Birger fjellet and are already having problems with the ice blocking their way. Since the website for the ice charts aren't updated during weekends, we will only be able to see what the ice are up too in the afternoon today. Either way it sounds like the guys are up for giving it a try, seeing how far through they can get!
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distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
wind: 18 knots
Yep, they were in the kayaks, fighting a 18 knot wind but made it all the way to the Northwest corner of Spitsbergen. It was a hard paddle and they had trouble with finding a landing spot to put up the tent, eat and rest. Its hard not hearing from them for almost 24 hours, but knowing that they both are good paddlers, wouldn't do too crazy things, that the both of them have a tracer on them and that they have rifle, its a bit easier not to worry all the time. A bit.
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As far as I know Tim and Alon are still at Nissen, but since I didn't hear from them for a while they might be in the kayaks, who knows! As it looks now the wind should have settled for force 4 so there is a chance that they are in the kayaks going even further north, I hope I will be able to let you know by tomorrow.
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more points for Svalbard...
Today was a day in the tent. The wind picked up again and the guys had occasionally near gale force 7, so not a day for paddling. At the moment it doesn't hurt with a day or two off, as they will have to wait at some point anyway for the ice to melt. At the moment its not even possible to circumnavigate Spitsbergen cause of too much ice! But we are staying optimistic and hoping that it will melt away by the time they get so far.
Anna
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distance: 20 nautical miles (37.0km)
wind: 10 knots
The paddle was close to the shore and the guys spotted the first white bear!! I guess there will be more of those as they get closer to the all the ice. Today is a hot day, 13 degrees, so its perfect for relaxing outside of the tent for once. Happy days, keep them coming.
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distance: 27 nautical miles (50.0km)
wind: 8 knots
Good paddle with a light wind. And the kayaks are followed by seals regularly, seems like they are happy to get some company. Its sunny which makes it feel a bit warmer, so it was good to rest after a good long paddle, both of the guys were feeling a bit sore but its only the nice feeling of progressing.
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The spirit in the orange Eureka tent is not that high today. The ice conditions of the North of Spitsbergen, not to say Nordaustlandet are not accessible. At the moment its impossible to go around, and it doesn't look like its about to change anytime soon...They are gonna keep on going to see what it looks like themselves and then we will have to see what the conclusion will be. Lets hope for the best!
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distance: 24 nautical miles (44.4km)
wind: 10 knots
Progress of almost 45 km. Tim and Alon are trying to make up for their bad luck with crappy weather. They had a good paddle even though it was rainy and snowy..! This time a seal accompanied them for a while. They sure get to see some stunning animals on their way, but yet to come is the polar bear. After having eaten its off to rest.
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Today the guys have had a wind of 45 knots and rain. Alon had to get out of the tent (Tim happy he didn't have to) to secure the tent so they wouldn't fly away. So right now they are just sitting around and waiting for better weather. The good luck is that Alon brought his mobile phone and Eva sent them card games, while they still had reception, so maybe after the 80 days they will be professional card players..
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distance: 22 nautical miles (40.7km)
wind: 2 knots
Finally the good weather came, the mood is going up and they saw a walrus 3 meters from Alons kayak!! Almost as scary as fascinating meeting animals like this! Now its time for a well deserved rest, hoping that the good weather continues.
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There has been no progress since yesterday, the morale is a bit low, its cold, windy and none of the guys are too happy. Getting drinking water is also work, they have to go to a lake to collect water, walk back to the camp and boil it. Its all adding up to be quite a few walks back and forth. So today is not the happiest day of the expedition. Its only still the beginning so it will take some time for them to get use to the daily rutines, which are a bit different from the normal everyday life. But I'm sure that once more days passes by they will get properly into it. I just gave them the forecast and it looks like the wind will go down quite a bit, so lets hope that they will get some progress within the next 24 hours. And keep writing comments, I'm sending all of them to Svalbard, so help me to cheer them up a bit!
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distance: 16 nautical miles (29.6km)
wind: 5 knots
Again a night paddle, starting from 21 to 03 in the morning! Both of them are tired after a tough paddle. Towards the end of the paddle the wind picked up from force 2 to force 4, so the last 3 hours of the paddle they had a rather strong headwind, this is not easy with kayaks loaded this heavily and also with a lot of stuff on the decks. Alons back is aching but at least Tims mood is a lot better than yesterday ;)
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more points for Svalbard...
distance: 21 nautical miles (38.9km)
wind: 9 knots
Finally!! Last night at 21:00 Tim and Alon started paddling. They started with a big crossing at about 30 km. For the first few hours it was still quite windy but as they paddled the wind decided to ease up on them. Tim ended up getting rather seasick and puked, a lot... But he is already feeling a lot better. Now they are both resting after the first paddling day(night)! Good thing that they could paddle without worrying about it getting dark.
Anna
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Hopefully this will be the last add from Longyearbyen. The wind have been teasing the guys so they have had to stay longer than wanted in Longyearbyen. Both Tim and Alon are now eager to start paddling since everything have been ready for a while, so lets hope the wind will easy up a bit so they can start paddling tonight!
Anna
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We got up this morning eager to paddle at last, but this was the forecast: ...Northwest force 5, today occasionally force 6... Not a good day to start!
We have noticed this strange pattern, of wind easing in the afternoons and evening, and according to locals, evenings and nights do have a more calm nature than mornings. So... we will wait by the sea this afternoon with the hope that wind will die out so we can start our expedition already.
We might decide to paddle on days with force 5 or 6 later on, but as a first day, when he boats are so heavily loaded with gear and food (also on the deck) it is not the best idea...
WE WANT TO GO!!!!!!
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so still in longyearbyen.... but ready to go now, at last!!! the kayak was fixed finally and then the tense moments of trying to load them came... we had only guessed when making the depots as to how much we could fit in our boats... ack! we each had 12 boxes of dried food plus extra food plus camping gear plus tent plus stove ...etc etc. thanks to two wxtex deck bags each from pacific outdoor equipment it all fit just - every spare inch from behind the seat to strapped to the deck is chockas. this leaves our entire stern and stern deck bag crammed full of food plus more in bow and in the bow deck bag... man i hope i'm hungry. so we have a few more days here in longyearbyen to make sure nothing is forgotten and the weather is right. in a strange aside i(Tim) found an old workmate from Sydney rolling around downtown longyearbyen. Tommi and i worked together in garfish a year or so ago and i hadn't seen him since so it was a bit bizarre to randomly see him. he gave us a tour of his current kitchen aboard the national geographic endeavor and a promise of a hot shower should we find him on the high seas... sweet at least i may get one shower in the next 80 days*...
Tim
*80 days --- the length of time Alon has calculated as the max (ie. the total amount of food) time it should take to circumnavigate Svalbard... i hope its less :)
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After working on the broken boat for a few days, we can say that we are almost done... the kayak was broken in three places, it all now looks ok, we just have wait for it to dry before we can go and on run a wet test to it.
We also padded the boats with foam, to make it a little bit warmer, although, Tim finds the kayak a bit small for him, lets hope it is not to small.
With testing the fixed boat and the other gear we think that we will start on Monday, not before... the good thing about waiting here is that the ice is clearing from Nordaustlandet, so hopefully, by the time we get there, we won't need to wait
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Most of today went by with getting material for fixing the damaged kayak, a special thanks to Tommy for providing a sanding machine which helps making the progress much quicker! So everything is progressing already. Hopefully they will be ready to start paddling in about 5 days.
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we made it!!! ---- well sort of... we got here at least. all our stuff has arrived and we found a place to stay (thanks fabrice) the first two days have been a little crazy finding our stuff and organizing the drops. in the end we had 2 hours to sort and pack three food drops. lets hope that all the rest of the food will fit into the kayaks.... ooops first we have to fix one. it seems that the kayaks are more fragile then someone thought... when they dropped it!!! at least that`s our best guess as to whats happened to cause so much damaged to a boat. we will now be spending some more time here trying to fix the broken boat before we set off. at least this will give tim's broken foot time to heal... yes that's right he managed to break the 2nd metacarpal in his foot clambering around river rocks in norway. thankfully he avoid the swim over the fourty foot waterfall that was after the pool. so we have a few days here yet
---- see ya tim and alon
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Yesterday Alon and Tim finally arrived in Longyearbyen! After such a long time of planning this expedition, there are now there. The following days they are gonna be busy with getting the kayaks ready, organizing food drops and making sure that that everything is set so they can take off. Good luck guys, if anyone can do it its the two of you.
I will keep you updated!
Anna
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The day started a bit messy, there were no access to the kayaks and all the things that Alon already sent to Svalbard, cause its Sunday and everything was closed. People they were supposed to meet with had delays which made it a bit complicated. But as the day went by Alon and Tim both managed to meet who they arranged to meet with and even got some shopping done. They purchased a few goodies like cheese, a bit of meat, 2 kg of chocolate and other basic things. There was a bit of an argument about toilet paper! Alon insisted on buying toilet paper but Tim was more up for using seawater..!! Though it all ended up with a few roles, and seawater... lets say it wont be a problem to get hold of.
After a lot of walking Tims foot is a bit aching, but he will be fine. Once they get started they will spend more time sitting than walking so the spirit is good. All in all the day turned out to be good and tomorrow there should be access to the kayaks. They will also meet with the Governor of Svalbard to finalize their permits and they have until the afternoon to arrange their food drops! So its gonna be another busy day tomorrow. Get some good sleep tonight, there wont be many more nights left in normal beds.
Anna
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more points for Svalbard...
Here it goes... I feel like a bomb is going to drop. You know that one --- lurking somewhere behind your stomach, aching. Six week of Austria and the Alps has passed. I had some grand plans of training that of course half evaporated and the rest half-baked. At least I pretended to organize some more with Alon (that means we actually talk on the phone -- more than once even). Really this is definitely been Alon's show and big thanks have to go to him. So tomorrow I head to Norway for some more ww boating for a week and then to Svalbard. Alon and I will both be arriving on June 7 to pack food drops and load them on the ship June 9. After that I guess we are off. Arrgh I'm sure I haven't packed my toothbrush
Tim
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This is my final day out of four here in Istanbul. I came here to run sea kayak sessions for the local paddlers . Kayaking is a relatively new sport in this country, but what I found is great enthusiasm and eagerness to learn.
Yesterday we paddled from the black sea, on the Bosphorus. Green hills on both sides, the water is much more clean than one expects on such busy channel.
It was also a break for me from all the stress before Svalbard.
Tim and I have about three weeks to think about all the things we didn't think about yet ;)
Thank you Turkey.
Alon
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It is now only one month prior to my flight to Svalbard. There are so many little issues needs to be addressed; finalizing our menu, making sure we got all the gear. The kayaks are now on their way to Longyearbyen, there is always a worry something will go wrong...
Wednesday, May 7th, I am taking a break from all these preparations. I will fly to Istanbul (Turkey) to run a kayak course for a group of local paddlers there.
A small group from BODEKA club visited Israel a few months ago, and it was an amazing to see these brave paddlers, teaching themselves, sometimes with improvised gear, but nonetheless, some became really good paddlers. I am glad I can contribute something to promote this sport in Turkey.
Those four days are excellent break for me... not to think about Svalbard for a change ;)
Alon
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So I'm still obsessed with the act of starting this nut ball task, that and the polar bears (although alon says walruses are scarier - i say i can only worry about one large mammal at a time as my brain is too full). but back to the starting i have been with the parents to sort that ever growing accumulation of stuff called life and i guess to start my journey proper like. so later this week i guess i start, with a short week of driving to see my friends in various places in the north island, get some last boating in and to say goodbye. most of them don't realize that i won't be back for a while. mostly that's my fault. face with the difficultly of explaining svalbard i just don't. at the end of my drive i will be at auckland international ready to fly to europe the long way through the states and on to six weeks of boating in the alps of austria, switzerland, germany, and italy. So back to packing the stuff and then gone.....
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Well everything must start somewhere and usually with most stupid things that starts with tenacity, audacity and blind stupidity. Now this is not to say that this is an exercise in stupidity but more a case of not clearly thinking a thing through, so as such the start started
>....also i think im going to start looking for a good sea >kayaking adventure. heard about.....
>...I am planning a big expedition for summer 2008 (June-July). The >destination is Svalbard....
> Sure looks cold.....
>...also this place was in the news recently for the seed vault >thingy yah?....
>Hey Tim
>Didn't understand if it is a yes or a no about Svalbard....
>...as for norwiegen island in the far north it does sound >tempting let me pretend to think about for a day so i have >something to tell. (yes honey its a great idea i even thought >about it being a great idea for a whole day before i told alon >it was a fine idea. see i didn't make any rash decisions)......
>Hi Tim,
>There is so much to do for Svalbard.
>
>
>Hi Tim,
>There is so much to do for Svalbard.
>
>
>Hi Tim,
>There is so much to do for Svalbard.
top 31/03/2008 Tel Aviv
Slowly, everything is getting organized. The boats are in Tromsø - Norway and Alf will send them to Svalbard in a few weeks.
Tim and I got all the gear, we need now only to arrange some final details as repair kit for the kayaks and extra food. By June, I am sure, everything will be ready.
Alon
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The kayaks are in Grimsby (east side of England), soon enough they will be loaded on the ship to make their way to Norway. Things are getting together for us :)
Alon
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So another week went by.
This week I was busy with trying to organize the transfer of the boats from Wales (where Nigel Dennis makes his boats) to Norway. Now it seem like a matter of time before the boats will get there.
I also got the second package from ARC'TERIX, so we are now got almost everything we need for our trip.
Today it was almost 30°C, the sea was calm and paddling was excellent. But this weather is not what I need for Svalbard...
Alon
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In this post, Tim and I will try to bring some of our thoughts and actions while preparing for our expedition in Svalbard.
It has been about a year now that we are working on this trip, a long and hard year, but now we actually can see the end, or rather, the beginning :)
You may follow our preparations and later on, our progress through this page.
Alon
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Ireland
distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
BACK IN DUN LAOGHAIRE. 825 NM IN 36 DAYS! THEY DID IT!
Upon their arrival to Dan Laoghaire, Misha and Alon were warmly welcomed by a National Yacht Club who provided the guys with hot showers, invited them for a dinner and helped with lot's of logistics issues in Dan Laoghaire. Many thanks to the club for their hospitality.
It's quite a weird feeling that no paddling needs to be done tomorrow, no need to check when high/low water would be and how would the tide behave in this area. Lot's and lot's of rest now.
Well guys, Ireland is behind you, what's next?..
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distance: 31 nautical miles (57.4km)
Skerries today. Light head wind, fog - couldn't see much of the shore - and drizzling. Today again they paddled against the tide. But hard paddling job is already rewarded by the thoughts about tomorrow, when they are about to reach their final goal.
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distance: 37 nautical miles (68.5km)
Misha and Alon arrived to Kilkeel after 11 hours of paddling. Today, in spite of relatively strong side winds they managed to make a good progress. The spirits are high - no wonder, Dublin is 46 nm far from them! Today they finally visited a real Indian restaurant. Alon who felt so homesick about hot food finally got a native Indian meal that made him almost cry. Looks like tomorrow he is going to pay tribute to European style cuisine...
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distance: 27 nautical miles (50.0km)
wind: 20 knots
Today Misha and Alon started paddling at 11:00, because of the tide. They had back wind 5-6 Beaufort which picked up to 7 Beaufort towards the end of the day. The paddling day was "short" - 6 hours, until Alon's shoulder started aching, eventually due to the sprints of the last days.
The team has 90 nm left to their target, Dublin. It depends mainly on the winds whether they get there by the end of this week.
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distance: 35 nautical miles (64.8km)
wind: 30 knots
Another interesting paddling day today. Alon and Misha left Ballycastle and started running with the tide and side wind. The wind was 6 beaufort at first but soon picked up to 7 and even 8 Beaufort and changed from side to back wind. When they were passing Fair Head their average speed was 7.5 knots for about half an hour. No wonder that the team made 35 nm progress in 6 hours! In the afternoon the wind dropped down but picked up again to 8 Beaufort towards 16:00. At this time the guys already passed Larne and were planning to cross the Belfast bay. The tide was supposed to switch its direction at 16:40. So Misha and Alon decided to continue paddling. However they noticed that their speed started dropping down from 6 to 4, then 3, and finally to 2 knots. When one makes progress of 2 knots with 8 Beaufort wind at one's back, that means that one paddles against a strong current. The seas also got much higher around them, it was a tidal race. When the guys realized that they are paddling against the tide, they decided to turn back and land at the shore that they've recently spotted on their way. To go back meant paddling against 8 Beaufort wind. After turning around (which wasn't easy at all) they had to paddle for 1 mile to get to the beach. The heavy wind blowing against the current was raising 4 meter waves within the race. However, the tide was so strong that after turning back the guys made progress of 3.5 knots against 8 Beaufort wind. Finally they reached the landing spot at Portmuck where they stayed for tonight.
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We're stuck again, this time in Ballycastle. The southerly winds 5-7 Beaufort are blowing against the tide on Fair Head - the NE corner - creating powerful overfalls. This is the strongest tide of Ireland, and it would be too risky to try to pass it in these conditions. At least all the yachts are staying as well in the port.
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distance: 40 nautical miles (74.1km)
wind: 18 knots
Today was S-SW5-6, at times 7 Beaufort, almost no swell. Misha and Alon thoroughly planned their day in order to run with the tide. And the day was very successful due to the planning they've done. In spite of the strong side winds, they made their progress with the average speed of 4+ knots. The only delay was at Rathlin Island where their speed suddenly dropped from 4 to 1 knot, then afterwords raised to 3 knots and further on dropped to 1 knot again. When they realized that the tide behaves in this very confusing manner here, they decided to approach the shore. When they did it, their speed dropped to 0 knots! Just as the day before yesterday, they sprinted to the nearest landing place which eventually was the Ballycastle marine.
They had a hot shower in the marine and talked to the coastguard regarding the conditions they had at Rathlin Island today and their plans for tomorrow. The cost guard official explained to them that the behavior of the tide they experienced at Rathlin Island today was typical for the 2-3rd hours of flood tide at Rathlin (exactly the time Alon and Misha passed the place).
So it was not an easy day with a very good progress made and a couple of new things the team learned. They saw beautiful rocks on their way, that were different from all the previous rocks they've seen so far.
The 12.5 hours of paddling were summed up with fish&chips dinner at Balycastle restaurant.
Misha wrote:
That was a very long day. In Tasmania I would consider it a great success, however here I feel sad that we were too tired to really enjoy the amazing cliffs of Giants Causeway and the entrance of the Ballycastle Bay. At this stage of my life I don't want to push anymore or set new records. I just want to paddle, enjoy the calmness, the silence, the scenery, the excitement of rough seas.
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Bad weather day. There are 5-6 beaufort head winds that run against the strong spring tides here. We decided not to risk and stay on the beach.
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distance: 33 nautical miles (61.1km)
Portaleen. Following is the update on that day as written by Misha:
It was a difficult day. The storm is approaching Ireland and we needed to pass Malin Head (the most Northern point of Ireland) to get protection from the raising swell coming from the West. We started paddling at 7:45 towards the head and by all calculations and the evidence of the fishermen the current should have been turned against us in two hours. However we paddled with the current all the time and covered 21 miles in nearly 5 hours. The swell raised quickly and reached 3-4 meters near the head.
Once we reached the head we entered a race that turned out to be against us. The current exceeded 2.5 knots and though sprinting we progressed just 1-1.5 knots. The alternative was to turn back and wait a few hours in the sea till the current changes. It was impossible to land near Malin head due to the big swell hitting the land. We decided to push against the race. It was quite exciting and we even filmed our progress. The race coupled with massive swell and strong reflections from the cliffs created very messy seas. The whole area in radius of 3 miles around the head was full of reefs and the swell raised and crashed on them. It looked like walking on a minefield. Suddenly we saw a boat also making its way through the swell. We tried to follow the route of the boat, however we saw heavy surf almost everywhere. At some point we decided to go through the less aggressive surf and land. A few minutes ago we saw a heavy swell crashing there but if we schedule it right we can make it. The current pushed us back to the reefs. We sprinted to the beach looking back at the scary swells rising behind our backs. It looked like we're going to make it. We progressed through the waves but when we looked at the cliffs aside we discovered that we're stuck at the same point. We were paddling against really strong current, stuck deep inside the surf zone. These were very tensed minutes. We sprinted to the beach as fast as we only could making some rediculously slow progress. Finally we crossed the breakers line, right after it the sea was amazingly calm as if someone would completely switch off the whole mess, though there were no cliffs that protected this area.
We landed very exhausted, ate and rested. The flood had started and we decided to paddle 9 more miles to the next village. The fishermen claimed however that the current should change only 2 hours later. It looked unreasonable: if the ebb changes to flood then the current should change as well. However when we paddled out we discovered that we're paddling again against 1.5 knots current. The fishermen were right, there must be some anomaly at Malin head. 2 hours later the current changed and though tired we made the rest of the way with the average speed of 5 knots.
Many thanks to John and Mary for a hot shower and tea with chocolates on our arrival to Portaleen!
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more points for Ireland...
distance: 28 nautical miles (51.9km)
This is the first paddling day in group of two. From here only Alon and Misha will continue to Dublin.
Not a simple day. In the 9.5 hours of paddling the currents were all the time against the paddlers. They tried to use eddies but not with huge success. Eventually they landed on the place called Doagh.
The midges at this place are forming into little clouds. Wrists, backs, shoulders and other potential painful body parts all ok at the moment.
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
Arrived to a beautiful village of Kincasslagh. Today the weather forecast spoke for SE3-5 that shouldn't be favorable for the team, however the sea was calm, no any disturbing wind, a little bit of refreshing rain. The team paddled against the current at the very end of the day but the current wasn't too strong. They finally arrived at one of the bays of Kincasslagh village and were welcomed by a local family at the beach. One of the sons, Darrah, kindly allowed the team members to use the hot shower. After having dinner on the beach, the team headed to a local pub to mark Inna's last paddling day of the expedition.
The team members wrote a few words describing their feelings at this stage of the expedition:
Alon:
Day 25 was a great relaxing day. This trip for me wasn't thrilling and exciting as Tasmania so I was worried that I won't get my share of good time - just hard work of constant endless paddling. I was wrong! Three weeks into the expedition gave me some of the best paddling I have ever done! The cliffs and caves along the coast from Benwee to DownPatrick Head were stunning. Caves with rooms and shapes and exits from the other side of the mountain. Waterfalls that drop water strait on the kayak from 60-80 meters, the shapes that were covered in thousands of huge waves smashing on the rocks - all the and more gave me the thrill I so much needed.
I only hope that I will continue to be surprised by what I meet along the way.
Misha:
These were wonderful 9 days. Inna brought calmness and light to the expedition. Forced by the winds we paddled close to the cliffs exploring the stunning SW part of Donegal bay. I felt really happy, and it was only a bit pity that each paddling day gets us closer to the finishing point.
Inna:
9 days into the expedition made me understand that all I want from my life is to wake up in the morning, eat my oats porridge by the sea, get into the kayak and paddle, paddle, paddle. That's the way of life I'd like to be on. Comparing this Ireland expeditions to my former (solo) trips I have to admit that a great company makes a huge difference. Misha and Alon were an amazing company. I was good feeling part of their fellowship, sharing their moods, understanding their needs. Together we explored the beauty of the bays, the constantly changing seas and the menus at local restaurants. So favorable seas, stunning views, good people along with you, a LOTS OF SEA KAYAKING - could I wish more than that...
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24/07/2006 Malin More
distance: 34 nautical miles (63.0km)
wind: 17 knots
Donegal Bay is crossed.
Started early at 7:00. The wind was 4-5 bf at the beginning, weakened later. The direction of the wind was 45% in the back, not ideal, but not bad. Misha's wrist started to soar after a couple of hours. The situation was stabilized with the help of a spoon, attached tightly to the wrist. This way he managed to finish the crossing. Tomorrow is the rest day.
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distance: 17 nautical miles (31.5km)
wind: 20 knots
Started at 9:00 today. The wind was stable SW 6bf with occasionally 7bf. Fortunately in many places the cliffs gave very good protection from the wind. The scenery was spectacular, with many arcs and caves. Inna, Misha, and Alon were able to paddle inside those structures. Landed at 4pm at Downpatrick Head. Depending on the weather conditions, the team may be able to cross the Donegal Bay tomorrow.
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distance: 14 nautical miles (25.9km)
wind: 25 knots
The day started at Belmullet at 8:30am with nice SE 3-4bf forecast. At Broad Have bay it became obvious that the day will not be as nice as predicted. The winds picked up to SE 5-6bf. At Benwee Head the wind picked up again to SE 6-7bf. The cliffs on the right side were beautiful but impossible to land. It was clear to the team that they have to go closer to the cliffs to get some protection from the wind and then to land as soon as possible. As they've got closer they were hit by 8-9bf wind strokes. Alon capsized by one of those strokes and successfully rolled back. The team eventually landed at Portacloy at 3pm.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
The team reached Belmullet town.
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distance: 28 nautical miles (51.9km)
wind: 17 knots
Good progress, despite the heavy fog most of the way - 0.5mile visibility.
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distance: 25 nautical miles (46.3km)
wind: 12 knots
Today was first day paddling with sleepless Inna, which replaced Gadi in the third kayak. The visibility was pretty low - ~1.5 miles. Still the team made nice progress with help of 4bf back wind. Landing was pretty difficult due to high swells and a big number of underwater reefs.
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more points for Ireland...
distance: 15 nautical miles (27.8km)
Short paddling day today. The team reached Carna village, the place they supposed to meet Inna. Very hot weather, probably Inna brought some south sun from Israel.
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distance: 29 nautical miles (53.7km)
Today the team reached Aran islands. Lots of birds here. The day started with swells, for a change, but the sea calmed down afterward. At the end of the day they paddled against the tide for a few hours. Tomorrow they will meet Inna who is going to take Gadi's place for the next 8 days. Also, tomorrow the team will be on half a way to their final point!
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distance: 12 nautical miles (22.2km)
In Kilkee. There were 2 reasons for a short day today. First, the guys were tired after yesterday's paddle. Second, there was a parcel from MSR (Mountain Safety Research company) waiting for them in Kilkee, but since the post offices are closed on Sunday, they had to wait until tomorrow morning to receive the parcel.
A few words about this parcel. Due to the problems that the team was having with their gas stove the team contacted the stove's manufacture in Ireland to help them to fix the problem. The response was immediate and amazing - the parcel from MSR waiting for them in Kilkee included a spare pump for the stove, repair kit and dry bags. Many thanks to Tina O`Flynn who organized the delivery in such an efficient way!
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distance: 33 nautical miles (61.1km)
Today's paddle was hard - 12 hours on the water without getting out of the kayak. The reason - just lack of luck.
The team started paddling at 9:30 knowing that they are going to paddle against the tide. They basically had no choice because the tide was supposed to be with them at 3am and then at 3pm. None of those suited the team's plans. So they paddled for 6 hours against the tide but when the tide was supposed to switch at 3pm they realized that it actually didn't. What probably happened was that they entered another tide that wasn't registered on their maps, with a direction opposite to the first one, so they continued paddling against the tide, which made their day this long.
Today again the guys received LOTS OS FISH from a fisherman, Shawn Johnson. And yesterday they were visited by a very hospital family, William and Hilda Canner, who brought them milk, bread and beer. Amazing people here!
The Loop Head appeared to be one of the most beautiful rocks in the world. The team passed through a natural corridor formed by a gigantic rock sticking out of the sea and the rocks of the land, with hundreds of birds all around them.
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distance: 38 nautical miles (70.4km)
wind: 15 knots
Another big leg today. The team passed Dingle Bay.
It was a calm day but around 3 pm the wind picked up to 5bf. After 2 hours of paddling against 5bf, the team landed on an island on there way, to have some rest. Then suddenly the wind calmed down, and it was calm till the end of the day.
Tomorrow the team plans to reach Loop Head.
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distance: 28 nautical miles (51.9km)
The team makes their way north along the West coast. Today they had a good calm weather. The sea swell was up to 4 meters which reminded Alon ans Misha of Tasmania.
Today for the first time they saw puffins and were also escorted by dolphins, who were diving under their kayaks. The Deenish island they landed on is amazingly beautiful: the rocks, sheep and locks of birds. In the evening though lots of midges are coming which makes the landing places less hospital.
The spirits are high. The only thing that saddens is the news coming from Israel.
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distance: 17 nautical miles (31.5km)
wind: 15 knots
Today the day started with a thick fog. The team could see for less than a mile. Thus they had a chance to try dead reckoning, navigating by compass only. They paddled a few miles from the shore but couldn't see the land. In the morning there was 3bf head wind that increased to 4 and soon to 5bf in the afternoon. In addition to that, they occurred to paddle against the tide. So when the guys reached the bay next to Mizen head, they decided to land, since the next leg after Mizen Head was supposed to be about 20 nm. There were amazing caves in the Mizen Head area, with picturesque rocks and long beautiful corridors. The evening was spent at a pub, as usual.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 10 knots
Another good weather day. And again it was better than predicted by the forecast. It was mostly 3bf head wind, sedomly increasing to 4bf.
The team started paddling late today due to the problems they had with their gas stove that went out of order. Misha was fixing it for 1.5 hour, and finally the stove had no choice and came back to its cooking duties.
At the end of day the guys were hesitating whether to land at Baltimore or at one of the islands next to it. Finally they decided on Baltimore, which would probably be the last spot of civilization on the coast line for the nearest days.
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distance: 31 nautical miles (57.4km)
wind: 15 knots
A good progress was made today inspite of an unfavorable forecast. The forecast predicted head 4-5-6bf winds during the day. In the morning it was cloudy and the winds were W-SW2-3bf. Then gradually, with the sun coming out of the clouds, the wind picked up to 4 and finally to 5bf. So for the last 3 hours the guys paddled against 5bf wind. Tired after the last leg. Spirits are high!
The seas are going calm down the day after tomorrow, so hopefully the team will have a break from the head winds, at least for a couple of days.
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more points for Ireland...
This day could hardly be called a paddling day. The wind was relatively calm in the morning but picked up, as predicted, to 6-7bf in early afternoon. The forecast was telling about SW5bf later in the afternoon. So it was decided to set off for a late afternoon paddle. They passed a few miles against 5bf headwind but couldn't help thinking of a world cup game tonight. Finally the fleet surrendered. They landed in the next bay after the one they started from and rushed to watch the game.
Tomorrow the forecast still predicts head 5-6bf winds that make the team's progress quite a challenge.
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Today the team is in Cork, enjoying their day day-off. Following are the updates sent by the team members:
Alon:
I cannot escape the comparison between Tasmania and Ireland and I like the relaxed tempo we are taking here.i hope it is not too relaxed. The first few days always put my body in a very painful position and then the muscles slowly grow and the pain is slowly leaving and that is when I start really to enjoy an expedition. I think I reached that phase here and the last two day, although were tough (due to the wind) were much better for me. I had fears from not being motivated enough but I guess that I like paddling to much and motivation grows in every paddle stroke. That's it for now.
Gadi:
The expedition intensity is gradually growing. We started in very friendly sea with sunny sky and each following day I feel that the wind is stronger and change direction from our backs to our faces. Yesterday we were forced to paddle one leg that started at 7:30 and finished at 15:00, most of it in 5-6 head winds and occasionally breaking waves. If someone would ask me a week ago if I can paddle 7.5 hours straight in such conditions I would hesitate with my answer. Above all we are moving with caution and prefer to make it smart and safely. I am very happy with it. Looking forward to the west coast while we still have the south coast to finish. I woulld like to thank all the people that following our progress. I consider all of you as a part of our expedition.
Misha:
We're here near Cork waiting for the seas to calm down. Today SW winds are expected to reach force 8-9, making the seas too rough for us. Tomorrow evening depending on the weather conditions we will try to make some progress towards Kinsale head.
Up to now we haven't experienced any seas higher than 1.5 meters. We're still in relatively protected areas but in a few paddling days we will reach the exposed West coast well known for the big swell. The winds show pretty definite pattern: start increasing each 10 am, peaking at 2-3 pm, and calming down again at 7 pm. It doesn't look like a breeze since it varies in the direction. Anyway, the wind power in the afternoon is frequently a few Beaufort higher than predicted. Ideally we would have to paddle early mornings and late evenings, however that would leave too few hours for the sleep at night. Unlike Tasmania we don't push that hard here. We decided to limit our paddling days to 10 hours. We don't need to prove anything to ourselves anymore, it's time to enjoy Ireland. Alon and me feel much more relaxed here, but I hope it won't affect our awareness to the seas.
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distance: 21 nautical miles (38.9km)
wind: 20 knots
After a quite exhausting paddling day, the team is in the bay of Cork, Crosshaven town. The day started with head wind 3bf. The guys quickly passed Ballycotton bay, when the wind switched to 4 and immediately after that to 5bf. In this conditions they passed the next bay and got rather tired. 5 miles were left to enter the bay of Cork,a good spot to stop and have rest for the next day, since the gale winds are supposed to cover the area tomorrow.
The last 5 miles the team paddled against 6-7bf head wind, which was more than exhausting at the end of a hard paddling day. Tired but happy they finally landed at Crosshaven town, at the entrance of the bay of Cork city.
Tomorrow is a day of rest, both due to the gale winds visiting the area and also because they needed a day of rest after 8 paddling days. Hopefully tomorrow the team will have internet access, and we will have a live update from the field.
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distance: 11 nautical miles (20.4km)
wind: 20 knots
Strong winds today. 4bf head wind that was in the morning soon increased to 5bf and finally 6bf. Therefore the guys decided to stop before the next headland - Knockadoon head, and see what the weather is going to be tomorrow.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 15 knots
Today was a beautiful day. In the early afternoon hours the sea was calm. The scenery was very special. The guys were entering rocky corridors and passing under natural arcs. Everybody enjoyed the paddle and the view. Around 4 pm the wind picked up and finally was around W4-5bf (head wind). So the later hours were less enjoyable.
Alon's back is now aching strongly. But all in all the guys feel good. Started looking for a place to eat - they landed next to Ardmore town. Bon appetit! Have a nice evening!
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
Started paddling after 12pm, this time just because everybody got up late. The day was calm. The views become more and more beautiful every day. Today they enjoyed the rocky landscape of the coastline. Today the team was awarded for the hard paddling of the last days. They came accross a fisherman's boat and received a generous gift from the guys on the boat - fish for dinner.
Looks like everybody is getting into shape and getting used to the expedition paddling schedule. There was no yet internet access along their way, all of the above updates are based on phone calls.
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distance: 32 nautical miles (59.3km)
wind: 15 knots
In the beginning of the day the wind was NE5 bf, while the team was paddling south. The 45-degree angle made paddling quite exhausting. The team had a big break in the middle of the day, due to the current's direction. Finished paddling at 10 pm. Everyone feels pretty much tired. The good new is that Alon's shoulder is getting better! Tomorrow the wind will be calming down. Hope the guys won't need to work this hard.
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
wind: 12 knots
The weather is not bad at all. 3-4bf back winds. The team's paddling schedule is build according to the currents table. They paddle during the hours when the current runs in favorable direction and take a break when the it switches the direction. Paddled today until 9 pm, the "switch" hour.
The landscape is beautiful. The spirits are high. Alon's shoulder feels better, so does its owner. Gadi and Alon are in charge of the kitchen today. They chose to cook spaghetti this evening. Misha would make the dishes.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 15 knots
Landed 3 miles north to Mizen Head (East coast).
The team paddled against S-SW 3-4bf wind in the morning that became 5bf in the afternoon. On the other hand, they took advantage of the tide. Alon's shoulder is aching strongly. He will be taking medicine during the nearest days, and hope he gets better.
Nevertheless, everybody is in a very good mood. The evening was spent repairing a petrol-stove and cooking a dinner on it. Saw the first seal today.
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more points for Ireland...
Misha, Alon and Gadi launched from Dan Laoghaire, one of the Dublin ports. They started paddling late afternoon and paddled for 1.5 hour, just to get at some distance from the busy city. The sea was calm, light south wind. Tired after a sleepless night, they set a camp a few miles north to Bray. Good night guys. Sleep well!
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Stewart Island
wind: 10 knots
After the day before I just wanted to make some progress. The weather on the Island can change so quickly. I wanted to finish. It was a sunny day. Great conditions. I paddled around finding some big breakers in Shelter Pt. The swell was coming from the east after the strong easterlies from the day before. I arrived in Halfmoon Bay at 5:25pm. I finished the circumnavigation.
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distance: 15 nautical miles (27.8km)
wind: 25 knots
It was a mess!!! It was very hard day. One of those one should stay at home. I left the sheltered hut and after 5 km reached to the open sea away from the port. It was a strong head wind but I decided to check the next bay located opposite to "The Brothers", 2 islands only a few km further. It was a mistake! I should have gone back to the sheltered hut.
There was no landing there. I then had to make a decision if to continue or to go back. I decided to continue. The next bay was marked as landing and it was only a few km ahead. Paul Caffyn landed there. After a few hours of fighting the winds and waves I arrived there. It wasn't a place I could set up a camp. I continued with the fear I might end up sleeping in a rock shelve.
The wind got stronger and it was harder and harder to continue paddling. The sea was completely white from the wind breaking the top of the waves. I was telling to myself that it is the same as any other paddle but just a bit slower (it was actually a lot slower).
With great hope I arrived to another bay. I approached Kopeka Island and went around it to the sheltered side. The water was calm and I looked around me there was a river going down into the sea but from a rock shelve. Again not a good place to build my tent, but I might not have a choice. It started to be late and I was exhausted from that long day. A very small piece of sand caught my eye when I was approaching Kopeka Island. I decided to check it out. I entered a very small bay with a tiny beach with 10X7 meters of sand (at high water); it was enough. There was one little problem. The beach was taken by a seal. I wanted this spot, but he didn't give up so easily... he started to move towards me trying to chase me away. I did the same. There was no result. I decided to ignore him for now and started to bring my stuff from the kayak. He could feel I was there to stay and became more aggressive. I then decided I should put an end to it and show some aggression as well and won :-)
What a day...
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distance: 35 nautical miles (64.8km)
wind: 15 knots
Titi (Muttonbird) Island groups were just beautiful! These small brown islands pop up in the middle of the sea were a good contrast to the blue water and white cups created by the wind. South West Cape was my main worry before the trip. It was one of the reasons I pushed so hard to paddle beyond that point as soon as I could and before the weather changed and brought some strong winds and bigger swells. The tidal races can be nasty there.
Well, it was a bit messy but not as bad as I thought it would be. Approaching to South West Cape was not easy with rough seas and head wind. When going between main land and Big South West Cape Island a seal jumped around the kayak almost touching it, it was nice watching him play around me (but he was smelly) :-)
It was a long day and in Port Pegasus I was just thinking about sleeping, but then found a nice cave on Ernest Island, I explored it and it was just a great ending to a good paddling day.
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distance: 25 nautical miles (46.3km)
wind: 15 knots
One of my main worries was crossing Mason Bay. Hard landing and big breakers. It was mainly cold that day, numb fingers and feet... But if to be honest, crossing Mason Bay with such conditions was a blessing. It was great feeling to cross latitude 47 south for the first time. It felt like entering new zones remote and wild areas...
I decided to land in Doughboy Bay despite the long paddle in and out of the bay. I wasn't disappointed. I met some penguins on the way and the bay is just stunning. A river from the north, protected waters and wild vegetation all around. I found the DOC's hut and it was such a change from the sand flies in Long Harry.
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distance: 24 nautical miles (44.4km)
wind: 17 knots
Good day. It was raining a bit at some point. The wind started to get stronger after passing Gull Pt. Later on, after low water the current direction changed and I paddled against the current and the wind and my progress was only 1 kn. I then got closer to the coast to minimize the current effect. Crossing Smoky Bay was very hard so I decided to call it the day soon after. I then camped in Long Harry Bay. Very nice beach in the north west corner of the island. The big challenge of the day came after. Thousands of sand flies started to bite me and I looked for some refuge in my tent after a very short dinner.
In the morning it was even worse. They waited for me and I burnt the porridge and almost didn't eat that morning at all. I just wanted to be in the kayak away from the sand flies.
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Arriving to Halfmoon Bay, Stewart island by ferry. The forecast was unfavorable, predicting head winds of 20 knots. I decided not to take a chance and cross Foveaux Strait. However winds were not as bad and I was frustrated a bit.
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Tasmania
wind: 7 knots
We did it! After 15 hours of paddling, 47nm (87km), we landed at Ulverstone, our starting point. As a matter of fact we didn't plan to finish the circumnavigation today. But when we realized at the end of the day (about 9pm) that we have 17km (9nm) left till Ulverstone, we decided to make out first and last night paddle on this trip.
What a great feeling it is to suddenly realize that we finished out first long and exciting expedition, which left us with tons of memories and experience.
We are going have some sleep now, and have lots and lots of rest in the nearest days.
At the moment, we would like to thank all the people who were following these updates for 30 days. This definitely made them part of our expedition!
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 13 knots
Today we arrived to Weymouth. It was a relatively difficult day - West force 4. We covered 26nm (48km). Misha's hand was OK today, but still both of us are rather tired since we haven't had rest for quite a long time. Since there are only a couple of paddling days left, there is no point in making a long break right now. We need just to push forward to get to the finish point.
Most of the houses at Weymouth were closed but we finally found people living there and asked them if there was a place at Weymouth to stay overnight. Linda and Garry, whom we met in one of the houses gave us mattresses and blankets. Thus, thanks to hospitality of the Tasmanians, we have a shelter again.
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distance: 40 nautical miles (74.1km)
wind: 15 knots
Today, with a good back wind, we arrived to Waterhouse Island - 40nm (74km). We could probably move further but Misha received a heavy pain in one of his hands, probably because of long and intensive paddling during the day. This pain of inflamed tendon is very common among kayakers on long trips. Usually the recovery requires a long rest. We don't really have spare days for rest now, so we could only hope that it would be better tomorrow morning, with medication's help.
We were luckily not far from Waterhouse Island when this happened to Misha and saw a boat at some distance from us. We shouted trying to draw boater's attention, and they finally noticed us and approached our kayaks. We asked if there is any place where we can stay overnight, since our camping equipment was gone. And these kind people invited us to their place on the Waterhouse Island. There we were given beds and blankets and had a great meal with the place owners. Many warmest thanks to Clive and his wife for their endless hospitality.
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distance: 21 nautical miles (38.9km)
wind: 20 knots
Again, the forecast was wrong. Instead of "promised paradise" - relatively light back wind, we paddled for the whole day against N-NW-W force 4-6. Covered only 39km (21nm). In the evening the wind started calming down (of course!). We put a tent on a sandy beach, and then met some people who appeared to be living here not far from where we camped. They invited us to come to their home, and so we did. When we came back late in the evening, we found out that the wind changed direction and got rather strong, and that there is no tent on the beach. Yes, our tent, with both sleeping bags, mattresses and a drybag has gone with the wind. Alon jumped into the kayak and tried to look for it in the sea but found nothing. We went to sleep on the beach with all our warm things on us.
Well in this case we can only admit that we were lucky that out documents haven't gone either.
The forecast predicts rain tomorrow evening. It would be nice to find some place to sleep then.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 15 knots
We are at Binalog Bay. We started paddling in the morning against 4-5 force wind. The forecast said that it is going to be a 5-6 head wind for the whole day. So we thought to stop in Scamander for shopping and then paddle a relatively short distance further to the next town, since you cannot paddle for a long time against 5-6 force wind. So we landed at Scamander, relaxed and had a big meal. And then we noticed that the wind started to calm down. But we were so full that we had no chance to cover a long distance now, even with a calmed wind.
So the result is 48km (26nm). But what a lovely chicken we had...
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distance: 19 nautical miles (35.2km)
wind: 23 knots
When we went out into the sea this morning, it looked like a lake. We enjoyed the radio playing in Alon's PFD, enjoyed the weather, until after 2 hours of paddling the wind started changing to northerly and picking up gradually. The forecast for today predicted back winds (S-SW10-20). Northerly change was said to come tomorrow. It was absolutely unexpected for us, and when the wind was about force 6 we started looking for a place to land, and it took us quite a long time to find one. It was a lonely beach with a couple sitting on it. They were about to leave the place when we arrived. We asked them if there are any facilities around where we can wash ourselves and have some food, and we discovered that there is a sanatorium here, next to the beach, with showers, washing machines and a restaurant. We were lucky to have all these luxuries here after paddling hard for the last hours. Today we did only 35km (19nm).
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
wind: 25 knots
We are at Bicheno, 55km (30mn). Because of the SW-W force 6-7 wind, we had to come into all the bays on our way, using them as a shield to protect us from the wind. The mountains were also a good shield for us, we felt it especially when the mountains were getting lower - the wind was immediately picking up then. Another fact about the winds here is that they are getting very strong right after changing their direction.
And last but not the least... The strange animal that we saw yesterday appeared to be brush-tail opossum. Now we know for sure where we are.
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
wind: 10 knots
Today was a relatively short day. 54km (30nm). We felt OK to paddle another couple of miles but there was no place for landing further on, so we decided to stop here.
Today we were lucky to paddle with a penguin for a couple of minutes. Penguin appeared to be a small and a very sweet fluffy bird. It was working so hard swimming along with us.
We have already seen many kangaroos, and today we saw some animals with long tails and mole-like faces, climbing trees just like monkeys. We also keep seeing albatrosses. The animal world here is so different from what we know, so rich and extremely beautiful.
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distance: 25 nautical miles (46.3km)
wind: 25 knots
Today we had a relatively short crossing to Maria Island and paddled all in all 25nm (46km) against force 5-6 wind. The crossing itself was only 10nm but it took us about 4 hours until we finished it, because of head winds. We are tired and can hardly sit - our backs are aching after the last two days of intensive paddling.
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more points for Tasmania...
distance: 41 nautical miles (75.9km)
wind: 10 knots
Today we arrived to Fortesque Bay on Tasman Peninsula. 76km (41nm)! Lack of wind makes much difference :). It was 12 hours of paddling without getting out of a kayak, since we had a crossing followed by an area with no place for landing.
Cape Pillar that we passed on our way appeared to be one of the most beautiful places that we have ever seen: big and small pipe-like rocks, some of them look like a Babylon tower, others are spread next to the shore, surrounded by water. The place is absolutely uninhabited. Its loneliness and solemn beauty of the rocks was just amazing.
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distance: 8 nautical miles (14.8km)
wind: 30 knots
Today we planned to make a crossing to Tasman Peninsula but the forcast that we received in the morning reported of SW Gale (force 7-8) winds for today. Since we originally planned to cross about 40km (22nm), we decided to stay on Bruny Island for another day and do the crossing tomorrow, with calmer seas. The only paddling that we did today was 14km (7.5nm) north Bruny Island, just to make the tomorrow crossing a little bit shorter.
This place in the Moorina Bay, where we camped tonight, is known due to the fact that there are penguins here that one could see at night. Hope we'll have a chance to see some of them.
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We are in Cookville. The forecast for today is NW force 6, while we have a 40 km crossing to NE, Tasman Peninsula. We decided to have a day rest, wash our clothes, have a hot shower and some good food. We arrived to caravan site and got homely hospitality: dinner, hot tea and a chat. Thanks a lot to Jennie from Cookville and Michael from Cockle Creek for their kind and warm welcome during the past two days!
The South West and South coasts were both amazing and scary. We had no proper weather forecasts for the whole paddle. We failed to listen to the radio broadcasts both on AM and FM bands. We hoped to connect fishing boats by VHF radio, but it seems that no one monitors VHF channels except probably for the big harbors. We encountered very high seas and strong winds. One day we were almost blown from our kayaks by force 9 (44 knots!) wind that hit us. Another day a huge 6 meter wave broke on us, causing some damage to the equipment. Alon almost dislocate his shoulders. Misha's paddle was kicked out of his hands. The paddle leash was ripped on both ends. He was lucky to swim to his kayak and make a reentry and roll with the spare paddle.
Slowly we got used to the very high seas here. We felt OK in 5 meters wind waves while getting to the South West Cape. Alon even attempted to film us approaching the Cape. A few days we paddled with force 7 tail winds and 3-4 meters waves, which excited us at the beginning but became quite regular nowadays.
Right now we're out off the dangerous areas. The East coast is much calmer than the West coast but we expect strong head winds here much more frequently.
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distance: 31 nautical miles (57.4km)
wind: 25 knots
Today we arrived to Cookville on Bruny Island. It's less exciting paddling here than at the SW part, and we now start thinking more about the finishing point.
People are very warm here. Both yesterday and today we were invited to have a meal (we haven't refused). Yesterday we had wallabies (small kangaroos) burgers - it wasn't bad at all. Ironically, today we saw wallabies for the first time here. Up to now we had seen dolphins, right next to our kayaks. We saw huge albatrosses. They usually come and follow us when the sea picks up.
Tomorrow, we plan to cross to the Tasman Island. The weather forecast reports of NW wind that could pick up to 30kt, which makes the crossing problematic. So we'll see what the seas are like tomorrow, and in the worst case we'll stay on Bruny Island and make the crossing the day after tomorrow.
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distance: 33 nautical miles (61.1km)
wind: 30 knots
The SW coast that is well-known for its rough and challenging seas, is behind us. And we have to admit that all that is said about this coast appeared to be true. During these 6 days (one of which we stayed at the shore), we have experienced the kind of sea that we've never been through before. We happened to be in the sea when the wind picked up to force 9. We learned what it looks like when a 6m wave breaks on you. Another thing that was amazing indeed about this coast was weather changes. The seas and especially the wind could pick up in less that an hour to the extents that make paddling almost impossible. We'll write in details about everything that we had experienced on our way, the valuable lessons that the sea had taught us.
Today, with the sea 4m and 6-7 force back wind we covered 62km (33nm) and passed South East Cape. 6-7 force winds are very common here, and we already got used to paddle in these conditions. It's OK until the wind picks up to force 8 or 9. Then one has to be very careful just to keep balance in a kayak :).
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distance: 30 nautical miles (55.6km)
wind: 30 knots
Going around SW cape
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distance: 27 nautical miles (50.0km)
wind: 30 knots
This day the wind picked to force 9 close to the end of our paddle!
Update from William Cooper:
There has been no contact with Michael and Alon since they left Strahan.
Today an e-mail arrived from some Mr. William Cooper that says as follows: "message from two intrepid kayakers, leaving port davey west coast of tasmania & heading south. one day behind scedule due to weather but all`s well"... A short but rather important update if one takes into account the truely "SW-coastal sea" described in the recent Tasmanian weather reports.
According to the reports, there were Gale winds on SW coast for the last few days with the sea up to 5m. Therefore it's really good to hear that everything is OK. This also explains the delay in Michael and Alon's schedule.
The weather forecasts for the coming days are much calmer, that will eventually enable Michael and Alon to get to the inhabited area and be in touch in a couple of days.
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A day off... due to thick bush, we weren't able to explore too deep into land though.
But it was nice to have a break.
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distance: 34 nautical miles (63.0km)
wind: 15 knots
Today a 6 meter wave broke on us. We could see it coming, looming above us, leaving us no possibility to escape, maybe try and prepare our bodies to the blow. We were berried under for a long time. Misha's paddle leash ripped and the he had to let go of the paddle so swimming was inevitable. Alon managed some how.
After Misha re-entered his kayak we collected our stuff. We lost some maps, one sandal but nothing essential.
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more points for Tasmania...
distance: 35 nautical miles (64.8km)
wind: 8 knots
Today Alon and Michael left the bay of Strahan after 4 days of rest and stormy weather. As they mentioned before, the SW coast is 162nm (300km) of uninhabited area, and there is almost no chance that they would have any means of communication in the nearest 7-9 days.
The forecast for the few nearest days is 2-3m sea and force 4-5 winds (mostly head or side winds) which makes their paddling possible.
Thus, with there warmest greetings to everyone who is following these updates, they hope to be in touch as soon as they can.
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Last day in Strahan.
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Today is our third day staying at Strahan. The seas are getting higher from day to day and tomorrow are going reach 8 m according to the forecast. The wind should also pick up and reach 50 knots as per the forecast. Being here, in the Strahan bay, we could hear the sound of waves raging a couple of kilometers away from us, out in the sea.
So we have nothing left but to have a lot of rest. Our shoulders, backs and hands get recovered meanwhile. We have plenty of time to explore Strahan surroundings and hope that tomorrow will be our last day staying here as the seas are going to calm down.
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Another day waiting...
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We're happy to be in Strahan after pretty exhausting 7 days. The entrance to Macquarie harbor (Strahan bay) revealed very strong tide currents. Usually there are no tidal currents on the west coast so we were a quite surprised.
The last 2 days we pushed hard, because we knew the sea is going to get rough. We wanted to get to a safe harbor in case we're stuck for a few days. Right now it seems like we will stay here for at least 1-2 days. The forecasts predict very high seas and gale winds (35 knots). It would be too dangerous to paddle now. All the fishermen stay in the harbor as well.
This is also a good chance to have a rest. We've got hands full of blisters, the other side of them are burnt of the sun. Misha's lips are cracking. Our shoulders and backs are aching. Alon can sometimes hardly walk (well he needed that very rarely in the last days :-) ). But it should get better after resting.
The sea here is simply exciting. The north coast experiences more or less the same type of waves as the Mediterranean: the same "wind waves" + currents on the NW/NE. However the west coast is completely different. Firstly, huge long swells. They are much different than what we were used to in Israel. They are long and lazy but they have tremendous power. You don't really want to get into surf with this pile of water. Up to now we have experienced up to 4 meters swells, sometimes getting up to 6, we guess. But this is not as scary if you don't need to land. Unfortunately at the end of the day we do need it. :-) This is where the troubles come. We have to look very carefully for the right landing places. Sometimes we paddle very long distances to get to a protected landing spot. Another situation when you must be aware of the swells are the rocky beaches and reefs. The reflecting waves can make the paddling very messy.
In a few days, when the seas calm down a little, we will continue to the SWcoast. This is about 300 km uninhabited area experinecing one of the roughest seas.
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distance: 37 nautical miles (68.5km)
wind: 22 knots
What a day! The sea 4m. Wind F5 (mainly back wind). We covered 67km (37nm). 11 hours of paddling without getting out of the kayak (had two breaks in the sea). But finally we are at Strahan.
Like yesterday, we had these dumpy beaches along our way, one of the reasons for not having landed during the day.
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distance: 35 nautical miles (64.8km)
wind: 15 knots
Another long day - 64km (35nm). The last 40 km we covered without getting out of the kayak. That is because we were passing continuous dumpy beaches where it is impossible to land because the surf over there is huge + strong offshore currents that might prevent us from getting to the land.
Both of us are pretty much exhausted. Tomorrow we plan to reach Strahan where we would probably stay for rest.
The sea was not very high these days but it is going to pick up in a day or two, the same about the wind. This is another good reason for having rest the day after tomorrow.
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distance: 29 nautical miles (53.7km)
wind: 10 knots
We are at Temma, covered 53km (29mn). Today we had a chance to learn what it is like when the wind waves and sea swell move in opposite directions. We set off in the morning with the East wind and therefore had no breaking waves at the shore. However when landing at the end of the day, we realized that the West sea swell that we had this day, and didn't really feel it in the sea, brings pretty big breaking waves at the shore. This was completely new for us since in Israel we don't usually have this combination (wind waves vs. sea swell) but mostly wind waves.
Up to now we luckily managed to avoid surf at landing.
Even in the most abandoned places, we come across fisherman who help us mainly with weather forecasts.
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distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 15 knots
Today we started at 12:00am due the sand bars (had to wait for the high water) and covered 26nm (48km). The first hours (while paddling on the North coast) were quite calm. Even the race that we had on our way - we passed it at slack (the peak of either high and low water).
But then came the encounter with the Tasmanian West coast: head wind force 5 with 3m waves reflecting from the rocky part of the coast. We were 2 km deep into the sea and still had these waves. We had to also be really careful about the reef that we passed on our way unaware of it, with 3-4 m waves breaking against the reef.
Only after the rocky cost was over a mile behind us, the sea wend down to 1.5 m and afterwards we found a safe place for landing in the North part of the Ann Bay.
The West coast is mostly uninhabited. And you can feel it right away. No more civilization for the next few days. The only sounds that you hear are the sounds of nature.
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more points for Tasmania...
distance: 26 nautical miles (48.2km)
wind: 20 knots
Today was a relatively short day. We started with 3m breaking waves but were really lucky since the sea calmed down during the day.
We made 26.5nm (49km) and stopped at Robbins Island.
We planned to cross the Walker Channel (which could only be crossed at high water) but had to stop at some point and even carried our kayaks for some 150 meters. Tomorrow we'll start relatively late in order to cross the channel with the high water.
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distance: 37 nautical miles (68.5km)
wind: 20 knots
It was a long long day. We covered 37nm(67km) with the East back wind force 5-6. The sea was 1m in the beginning but got to 3m in the afternoon which made the last hours of paddling rather tough.
It's good now to relax at the Stanley restaurant. Both of us couldn't get asleep for a long time last night. So now the only thing we could think of is to go to bed.
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distance: 12 nautical miles (22.2km)
We started in the afternoon at Ulverstone (not at Devenport as planned) and paddled for 3 hours, 12nm (21km) until it got dark. The sea was absolutely calm. Looks like a good start.
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Arrived to Devenport in the afternoon on a ferry and then got by car to Ulverstone. Here we start.
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last updated, March 2010